Process of making shoes



A ril-28,1925. 1,535,609

- W. J. KELLY PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 18) 192G Patented Apr. 28, 19251.

UNITED s A Es PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM J. KELLY, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR F ONE-THIRD TO HARRY I. B RNHARD, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK- PROCESS MAKING SHOES.

Application filed June 18, 1920. Serial No. 389,824.

a citizen of the United States, residing at the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn,

county of Kings and State of New York,

have invented a certain new and useful Process of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention is a process of making shoes wherein I utilize an insole of anovel character.

' According to my present invention the insole is imposed upon a last, and the upper is lasted for the marginal portion of said upperto lie within a channel of the insole, said channel constituting a line of division between the body portion of theinsole and a protuding marginal flap of said insole. Concurrently with the lasting operation, the marginal portion of the upper, and an inner edge portion ofa welt are attached to the free portion of said marginal flap, whereby the edge of the upper, together with the fastening means between the upper and the welt, with the marginal flap are adapted to be covered by the marginal portion of the insole In such a manner that said edge of the insole relieves the fastening means fronr undue strain. The next step in the pro cedure consists in attaching an outsole to the protuding edge portion of the welt, the attaching means for the outsolejbeingexterior to thefattaching means whereby the upper and welt arefastened to vthe insole.

A shoe produced in accordance with my invention possesses pronounced functions and advantages, amongfwhich are (a) the fseam by which the upper and welt are fastened to the insole is protected by the edge of said insole in a manner to relieve the seam from undue strain and this minis nurses that tendency of the seam to rip; (b)

the outsolewhen worn can be removed from of upper and welt to the insole so that the shoe remains intact during the operation of re-soling it by ,a cobbler, and "the inner surface of the shoe and the top face of theinsole remain in a smooth condition so as to be worn with comfort.

()ther functions and advantages of the inventionwill appear from the following the Welt without disturbing the attachment description taken in connection with the drawings, wherein- I Figurevl is a plan View of an insole to be utilized .in the procedure ofmy invention.

Figure 2 is a cross section throu-ghsaid insole.

Figure 3 is a cross section illustrating the operation of sewing a lasted upper and a welt to the channeled margins of the insole, and

Figure 4. is a cross section showing the stitching operation whereby an o-utsole is sewed to the welt.

In carrying my invention into practice I employ any one of the forms of insole of the character disclosed more particularly in my copending application filed evendate herewith, on form of said insole being represented in detail in Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying drawings, wherein A is the body member of said 1118018,:8 is the marginal member protruding for an appreciable distance from the edge of said body memher, and C is the channel which extends inwardly from the edge of the body member and which channel constitutes a line of division between the body member and the marginal member at the edge of said insole. In the form of insole shown, the marginal member B is formed by a layer of material positioned in contact with the under face of the body member, and the, two pieces of material A, B, are permanently attached by a seam D positioned rearwardly from or within the edge of memberA so as to leave free the protruding marginal 1ne1nher and which seam at the same time leaves or provides a space constituting the inwardly extending channel at the edge of said insole.

The insole is, as usual, imposed upon a last, with the top face of said insole in con-' lOO gin of the upper and the inner edge portion of a welt F to the insole and within the channel C thereof. Said attachment of the upper and the welt to the insole is performed at one operation, at which time the margin of the upper and the inner edge of the welt are sewed to the marginal member or flap B by a seam G in such manner that the edge of the upper, the edge of the welt, and the seam are within the channel C, see Figure 3. The seam G is adapted to be covered by the edge or margin of the body member A of the insole, and when the shoe is worn the pressure of the foot upon the margin of the insole presses said margin upon the seam, with the result that the seam is relieved from undue strain and there is a minimum tendency of the seam to rip or tear.

After stitching the upper and welt to the flap or marginal member of the insole, it is preferred to fill in the space over the insole by a filling or composition, as indicated at H in Figure 4, and thereafter an outsole I is attached to the welt, preferably by sewing said outsole to the welt, the resulting seam J being separate from the seam G by which the upper and the welt are attached to the marginal portion of said insole.

The edge of the upper is encased within the channel of the insole, together with the inner edge of the welt and the seam Gr, but the welt extends outwardly from the upper and from the marginal flap of the insole, thus positioning the welt for the application of the outsolc, the surface of the shoe being leveled by the con'iposition l l. applied to the insole so that the outsole has a firm. contact with and hearing against the shoe. The seam 'l which attachesthc outsole to the welt is independent of the scam (t and is positioned exteriorly thereto, as a result of which the outsole can be detached without atlecting the seam G, whereby the upper, well and insole remain in a connected condition and theshoe minus the torn oil outsole remains intact, thus facilitating the operation of re-soling the shoe by-a cobbler.

It will he understood that I reserve the right of perforn'iing in the usual way the operation of lasting an upper so that the margin thereof is-adaptcd to lie within the channel of the insole; but economy of labor,

and consequently-a reduction in cost of manufacture, is attained by performing the operation of lasting the upper concurrently with the step of attaching the upper and the welt to the insole, said simultaneousor concurrent attachment of the upper and the welt to the insole being conducted in a manner to encase within the channelof the insole the edge of the upper and'the inner edge of the welt. Asstated, the attachment'of the upper and the welt to the marginal member or flap of the insole is performed usually by stitching, althoughother equivalent. modes o f attachment, such as stapling, may be employed.

It is to he noted that the attachment of the upper and the welt to the insole concurrently with the step of lasting the upper has a tendency to deflect the welt from the position itoccupied nori'nally with reference to the upper upon the completion of the shoe; and after the stitchingis performed the welt is beaten out in the usual manner and by appropriate means so as to position said welt for the attachment of the outsole.

By reference to Figures 3 and 'it of the drawings it will be noted that the face oi the insole along the edge portion thereof is in contact with the inner surface of the upper beginning at or about the line where the upper rises from the lower edge of the insole, and continuing to the top edge of the insole, said marginal portion of the insole or the top flap thereof being positioned to cover the edge of the upper, the'scan'i G and the inner edge of the welt. This contact between the edge'of the insole with the upper, together with the covering of the edge of the upperand the seam by the marginal part of said insole, performs to good advantage the important function of relieving the seam from undue strain so that it doe-s not rip.

It is apparent that the marginal flap or member 13 may be composed of waterproof material, and when an insole with such waterproof flap or member is incorporated in a shoe the seam G is protected, at least to a material extent, from theaccession of moisture-during rainy weather, hence it follows that by my invention a substantially wet proof shoe is obtained.

l'laving thus fully described the invention what I claim as new and desire to se cure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providing an insole with a. protruding lip and with a channel which extends inwardly from the edge of said insole, lasting an upper for the marginal portion thereof to be received within the channel of said insole,attaching the upper margin and a wclt tosaid lip of the insole or said lip to extend outwardly from the line of attachment of the upper and welt thereto. placing an outsole on the welt and over the lip to encase the lip between the outsole and the welt, and attaching the outsole to said welt.

2. In the art'of makingshoes, the process which. consists in }1)1OVl(ll1lg an insole with a protruding lip and with a. channel which extends inwardly from the edge of said iir sole, lasting an upper forthe marginal portion thereof to be received within the channel'of said insole, sewing the upper margin and a welt tovthe lip for the-edge of said insole to lie over theseam and for said lip to extend outwardly from the seam and into contact with the welt, positioning an outsole into contact with the welt and to encase said lip between the welt and the outsole, and

, sewing the outsole to the welt.

3. ltn the art of making shoes, the process which consists in imposing upon a last an insole provided with a lip the tree portion of which protrudes beyond the edge of said insole and tree portion of which is separated from the body of the insole by a channel which extends inwardly from the edge outwardly into contact with said welt, im-

posing an outsole on the welt to encase the lip between the outsole and the welt, and attaching the outsole to the welt on a line ex,- teriorly to the attachment of the upper to the lip and the welt.

4:. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providing an insole with a lip the tree portion of which protrudes be yond the edge of said insole and which tree portion of said lip is separated from the body of the insole by a channel which extends inwardly from the edge of the insole, lasting an upper for the margin thereof to ultin'iately be received within the channel of said insole, sewing the upper margin and a, welt to said. lip and for the tree portion of said lip to extend outwardly beyond said seam, and sewing an outsole to the welt so as to cover the tree portion of said lip and eucase the same between the welt and said outsole.

5. in the art of making shoes, the improvement which consists in providing an insole with a lip having a tree portion which extends beyond the margin of said insole and which tree portion of the lip is separated from the body portion of the insole by a channel extendinginwardly from the edge of said insole, concurrently with the lasting oi. the upper attaching the edge of the upper and the inner edge of a welt to said lip for the tree portion of the lip to extend outwardly from the line of attachment between the upper and the welt to the lip, and at taching an outsole to the welt so as to encase the tree portion of the lip between said out sole and the welt.

6.111 the art of making shoes. the inn PTOVGHIGDJD which consists in providing an insole with a 11p having a tree portion which extends beyond the margin 01 said lnsole and which tree portion of said lip is separated troin the body portion of the insole by a channel extending inwardly from the edge of said insole, lasting an upper, and concurrently with said lasting of the upper stitching the margin of said upper and the inner edge portion of a welt to the lip of said insole on a line for the seam to lie within the channel of said insole and for the tree portion of the lip to extend outwardly from the seam, and stitching an outsole to the welt so as to encase the tree portion of the lip between said outsole and the welt.

7. In the art of making shoes, the improvement which consists in providing an insole with a lip havin a tree portion which extends beyond the margin of said insole and which tree portion of said lip is separated from the body portion of the insole by a channel extending inwardly from the edge of said insole, lasting an upper, stitching the edge portion of the insole and the inner edge portion of a welt to the lip on a line close to the junction of the insole with the lip and for said lip to extend outwardly from the seam, lasting the upper concurrently with said stitching, beating out the welt, and at,- taching an outsole to said welt so as to on case the tree portion of the lip between the outsole and the welt.

8.111 the art of making shoes, the improvement which consists in providing an insole with a lip having a tree portion which extends beyond the margin of said insole and which tree portion of the lip is separated it'roin the body portion oi? the insole by a channel extending inwardly from the edge of said insole body portion, lasting an upper for the i'nargin thereof to ultimately lie within the channel of said insole and for the upper to contact with the face of the insole along the edge thereof, attaching the marginal portion of the upper and the inner edge portion of a welt to the lip of said insole concurrently with the lasting of the upper, imposing an o-utsole on the welt to encase the tree portion of the lip between the outsole and the welt, and attaching the outsole to the welt independently of the at tachinent of the welt and upper to the lip.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name hereto this 16 day of June, 1920.

WILLIAM J. KELLY. 

